‘Every Cook Ought to Study At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.

When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.

Brian Tate
Brian Tate

Film critic and industry analyst with a passion for uncovering cinematic trends and storytelling techniques.